Beiträge von Alpenflitzer

  • SPI geht aus.

    Wegen des elektrischen Kontaktfehlers im Sicherungsbereich startete mein SPI auch sofort und ging dann nach einigen Sekunden aus. Da war noch Sprit mit Druck in der Leitung.
    Nicht gleich neu kaufen. Mit zwei Kabeln von der Batterie die Pumpe testen. Läuft dann die Pumpe= Pumpe ok - Fehler in der Zuleitung.

  • Kühlwasser gewechselt - nun wieder der Mini zu warm - Thermoschalter viell. defekt?

    Bei meinem 93er SPI zeigt die Tempperaturanzeige immer um die Mitte an. Selbst als es draussen sehr heiss war, ging der Zeiger nur leicht über die Mitte. Ich fahre mit 88 Grad Kühlerthermostat und mein Kühlwasser-Temperatursensor ist 1 Jahr alt. Der Zeiger stand noch nie im roten Bereich.
    Wie sieht denn das Kerzenbild aus? Schwarz matt? schwarz-ölig? dunktelgrau? hellgrau? hellgrau bis weiß?

  • Kühlwasser gewechselt - nun wieder der Mini zu warm - Thermoschalter viell. defekt?

    Das Kühlsystem fasst 4 Liter Wasser. Mit 2 Liter zu fahren ist motorkillend.
    Irgendwo im System muss eine Blockade sein. Entweder Dreck, das Heizungsventil blockiert und lässt kein Wasser in die Heizung oder die Wasserpumpe blockiert. Schlauche auf Weichheit prüfen. Wenn das nicht hilft Kühler raus und das gesamte System auch im Motorblock fest mit Druck durchspülen. Vor allem beim Entleeren den untersten Schlauch abmachen.
    Wenn Du das Kühlwasserthermostat in der jetzigen Situation abbaust, müsste unter dem Thermostat Flüssigkeit im Block stehen. Geprüft?
    Dann bliebe noch an der Heizung im Inneraum den Zulaufschlauch zu entfernen, um zu sehen, ob hier Wasser rauskommt. Viel Zeitung und große Schüssel drunterstellen.

  • Fahrwerk einbauen

    Wenn es sich um Qualitäts- Hilos handelt ist eine Anleitung dabei. Bei mir lag die englischsprachige Anleitung dabei.
    @speedy.sc geh mal auf die Seite der Minfreunde Unterfranken, dort findest Du eine Menge an Hinweisen und Haynes Buch.


    HIER EINE ANLEITUNG VON CALVER, DEM ENGLISCHEN MINISPEZIALISTEN, ZU EINBAU HILOS FRONT.

    FITTING HILOS (BY CALVER)
    FRONT
    1. Slacken off the wheel nuts, jack the car up, and lower onto axle stands positioned underneath the front subframe. I usually site them directly under the inner bottom-arm pin. Make sure the car is secure and stable then remove the wheels.
    2. Remove the bonnet (hood). On post 1976 (rubber mounted front subframe cars) remove the 1-5/16"AF-headed bulkhead to subframe tower bolt. I strongly advise doing one side at a time, although hopefully the car won't go anywhere if securely positioned on the axle stands!
    3. Use the spring compressor as described in the literature supplied with it. If none is available - the Mini Spares-sourced type is a two-piece tool - a threaded rod with large cast T-handle screwed onto the top and a T-bar at the very end, and a long metal tube with a plate at one end. The metal tube is placed with the plate against the bulkhead. The 'pointy end' of the threaded rod placed down inside this, and screwed into the spring. The T-handle is then screwed down to compress the rubber spring. CAUTION; there are two types of threads used in the rubber springs. Pre 1976 had a fine, 1/2"UNF imperial thread and post 1976 ones had a coarser, 14mm metric thread. Don't wind one into the other - cross-threading the rubber spring will be a nightmare of epic proportions! Smear a blob of grease onto the thread on the rod, and take your time to carefully screw the rod into the spring. If you are getting a great deal of resistance - you may be using the wrong thread type. Once happy you've got the right thread match, wind the rod in at least nine or ten full turns to ensure complete thread engagement in the springs threaded section. Use the cast handle to compress the spring. This will take some doing as the force that spring is applying is in the thousands of pounds area. Compress it about 1/2".
    4. Remove the bump-stop fixed to the subframe tower elbow to give maximum working room - two nuts on inner side of tower for early non-rubber mounted subframes, one nut for rubber mounted types.
    5. Position the jack underneath the bottom swivel pin on the outer end of the bottom arm and jack the suspension up until the ally cone is just re-engaging the rubber spring. Now remove the rebound buffer under the top arm, fixed to the subframe by a Pozi-drive screw. You may need an impact driver since these can get corroded in. Doing this will maximise the 'droop' available on the top arm - again for maximum working room.
    6. Undo the top and bottom damper fixings and remove the damper.
    7. Lower the jack and allow the suspension to go to full droop.
    8. Compress the spring just far enough so clearance is given to remove the cone. Fitting the Hi-Lo back in will be easier because it can be made shorter.
    9. Getting the old nylon cup out of its socket can be trying - the easiest method I have found is to use a butane gas torch to melt the thing. Alternatively a very sharp craft knife (Stanley knife) can be used to cut it to pieces. Both are far easier than trying to pull it out with grips of some sort. Since Hi-Los (and some of the other derivatives) come with new knuckle cups, destroying them isn't a worry. I would strongly advise, however, fitting complete new knuckle assemblies since they are so cheap. Clean any corrosion out of the nylon cup socket in the top arm, and grease lightly to abate further corrosion.
    10. With the lock-nut screwed down to the knuckle seat end, screw the adjuster as far in to the cone as it will go, then screw it out again counting and making note of the number of turns it takes to set the platform to the original cone height using the one removed as a gauge. Remember - it's the distance from the spring platform lip to the end where the knuckle fits that's important - so don't just sit the Hi-Lo down on a bench - the adjuster may hold it up, and the raised seat locating ridge may be different to the standard one. Now screw the adjuster all the way in again.
    11. Use copper anti-seize grease on the knuckle pin to adjuster bolt joint, plenty on the entire thread length of the adjuster bolt and around the spring seat to avoid corrosion seizure then re-assemble the whole lot in reverse order of removal, substituting the Hi-Lo adjustable platform for the standard aluminium cone. Unscrew the adjuster by the relevant amount of turns noted to return the adjustable platform to the 'as standard' position - this will give you a near-standard ride height to work from - then do the other side.
    12. Refit the wheels, and lower the front onto the ground

  • Lebensdauer Kupplung in km

    Ja klar, schleifen lassen ist manchmal unerlässlich. Da ich viele Steigungen fahre und desöfteren auch mal "am steilen Berg" anfahren muss, schleift die Kupplung etwas länger . Meine Kupplung ist jetzt 28 000 km drin und ich denke die hält noch ein paar tausend km.