Fahrwerk einbauen

Irgendwo im Internet gibt es das englischsprachige Haynes als pdf. Eine kurze Zusammenfassung kenne ich nicht. Spätestens die vorderen HiLos werden aber ohne Sonderwerkzeug Probleme machen. Interessant wird es aber erst beim Einstellen. Dazu muss man aufpassen, dass die HiLos im Arbeitsbereich der Dämpfer liegen, dass die Geometrie passt, dass die Dämpfer hinten weich bleiben usw.

http://www.mini-forum.de/showt…mpete&p=981563#post981563

Zitat von speedy_sc

Metrisches Werkzeug zum einbau hab ich besorgt. Einstellen lass ich machen.
Bei den hilos ist doch bestimmt auch ne anleitung bei

Metrisches Werkzeug an nem Engländer?? Grober Fehler. Aber das wird dir schon noch auffallen

Ne Anleitung bei Miniteilen die dabei liegt?? Du glaubst auch an den Weihnachtsmann, oder??

Hast du schonmal was an nem Mini selber geschraubt?? Wenn du die Teile über einen Händler einkaufst, dann erklärt er dir vielleicht noch wo es hingehört und wie es da hingehört. Aber ne Step by Step Anleitung wirst du so gut wie nie bei Miniteilen dabei haben.

Werte für das Einstellen hast du sicher auch noch keine, oder??

Ich würde davon ausgehen, dass metrisches Werkzeug für das Spannen der Federelemente benutzt wird. All anderen Verbindungen sollten mit zölligem Werkzeug gelöst werden (v.a. wenn die Arbeiten nach langer Zeit und an fest verbackenen Verbindungen durchgeführt werden).

Ansonsten ist schon alles gesagt: Stichwort 'Haynes Manual' , wobei die Hi-Los die Trompeten ersetzen und zu allerletzt selbstverständlicherweise eine Achsvermessung bei den vielen einstellbaren Komponenten durchgeführt werden sollte.

Wenn es sich um Qualitäts- Hilos handelt ist eine Anleitung dabei. Bei mir lag die englischsprachige Anleitung dabei.
@speedy.sc geh mal auf die Seite der Minfreunde Unterfranken, dort findest Du eine Menge an Hinweisen und Haynes Buch.

HIER EINE ANLEITUNG VON CALVER, DEM ENGLISCHEN MINISPEZIALISTEN, ZU EINBAU HILOS FRONT.

FITTING HILOS (BY CALVER)
FRONT
1. Slacken off the wheel nuts, jack the car up, and lower onto axle stands positioned underneath the front subframe. I usually site them directly under the inner bottom-arm pin. Make sure the car is secure and stable then remove the wheels.
2. Remove the bonnet (hood). On post 1976 (rubber mounted front subframe cars) remove the 1-5/16"AF-headed bulkhead to subframe tower bolt. I strongly advise doing one side at a time, although hopefully the car won't go anywhere if securely positioned on the axle stands!
3. Use the spring compressor as described in the literature supplied with it. If none is available - the Mini Spares-sourced type is a two-piece tool - a threaded rod with large cast T-handle screwed onto the top and a T-bar at the very end, and a long metal tube with a plate at one end. The metal tube is placed with the plate against the bulkhead. The 'pointy end' of the threaded rod placed down inside this, and screwed into the spring. The T-handle is then screwed down to compress the rubber spring. CAUTION; there are two types of threads used in the rubber springs. Pre 1976 had a fine, 1/2"UNF imperial thread and post 1976 ones had a coarser, 14mm metric thread. Don't wind one into the other - cross-threading the rubber spring will be a nightmare of epic proportions! Smear a blob of grease onto the thread on the rod, and take your time to carefully screw the rod into the spring. If you are getting a great deal of resistance - you may be using the wrong thread type. Once happy you've got the right thread match, wind the rod in at least nine or ten full turns to ensure complete thread engagement in the springs threaded section. Use the cast handle to compress the spring. This will take some doing as the force that spring is applying is in the thousands of pounds area. Compress it about 1/2".
4. Remove the bump-stop fixed to the subframe tower elbow to give maximum working room - two nuts on inner side of tower for early non-rubber mounted subframes, one nut for rubber mounted types.
5. Position the jack underneath the bottom swivel pin on the outer end of the bottom arm and jack the suspension up until the ally cone is just re-engaging the rubber spring. Now remove the rebound buffer under the top arm, fixed to the subframe by a Pozi-drive screw. You may need an impact driver since these can get corroded in. Doing this will maximise the 'droop' available on the top arm - again for maximum working room.
6. Undo the top and bottom damper fixings and remove the damper.
7. Lower the jack and allow the suspension to go to full droop.
8. Compress the spring just far enough so clearance is given to remove the cone. Fitting the Hi-Lo back in will be easier because it can be made shorter.
9. Getting the old nylon cup out of its socket can be trying - the easiest method I have found is to use a butane gas torch to melt the thing. Alternatively a very sharp craft knife (Stanley knife) can be used to cut it to pieces. Both are far easier than trying to pull it out with grips of some sort. Since Hi-Los (and some of the other derivatives) come with new knuckle cups, destroying them isn't a worry. I would strongly advise, however, fitting complete new knuckle assemblies since they are so cheap. Clean any corrosion out of the nylon cup socket in the top arm, and grease lightly to abate further corrosion.
10. With the lock-nut screwed down to the knuckle seat end, screw the adjuster as far in to the cone as it will go, then screw it out again counting and making note of the number of turns it takes to set the platform to the original cone height using the one removed as a gauge. Remember - it's the distance from the spring platform lip to the end where the knuckle fits that's important - so don't just sit the Hi-Lo down on a bench - the adjuster may hold it up, and the raised seat locating ridge may be different to the standard one. Now screw the adjuster all the way in again.
11. Use copper anti-seize grease on the knuckle pin to adjuster bolt joint, plenty on the entire thread length of the adjuster bolt and around the spring seat to avoid corrosion seizure then re-assemble the whole lot in reverse order of removal, substituting the Hi-Lo adjustable platform for the standard aluminium cone. Unscrew the adjuster by the relevant amount of turns noted to return the adjustable platform to the 'as standard' position - this will give you a near-standard ride height to work from - then do the other side.
12. Refit the wheels, and lower the front onto the ground